Kenya and many parts of Africa are famous for their scam artists. You should always to be alert and nothing ever surprises you. It just becomes another story to tell at the end of the day. We were leaving for the northwestern part of Kenya today. I called an agent that worked with the airline to see if they had room for us on the plane. This man had secured a ticket for me many times. The morning was rushed and to save time I called ahead to have him start working on our reservations. I would later go into to the office, pay and pick up the tickets if there was room for us.
He quickly returned my call with the news that we were all set and didn’t need to go to the office. There would be someone at the airport strip with our tickets and we would pay there. I had never done it this way but was relieved that I had a little more time to work with because I would not need to go to town now. I had no reason to doubt him as he had issued tickets for me many times. I continued to pack and shortly before it was time to leave a call came in from the airline office. They wanted to notify me that this man had been fired days earlier and no longer worked for them!
This is an ongoing problem here in Kenya. When someone is fired they continue to represent the company they worked for until someone catches them. The company will try to make the public aware by posting the person’s picture in the newspaper along with a notice that they do not work for them or represent them from this date on.
We paid for our tickets at the office in town and had just enough time to grab our suitcases and head for the small airport just outside of Kitale. The suitcases were full of Bibles, beanie babies, jump ropes, and handmade dolls for those we would visit in Turkana land. We needed to arrive at the airport in plenty of time because you never know when the plane will leave. Sometimes it leaves late but then there are times that it will leave a good forty five minutes early. Today we were in the air and on our way to Lodwar and villages around that area thirty minutes ahead of the scheduled take off time.
The plane soared above the rich red soil of western Kenya and soon we were traveling over the majestic mountain peaks that separate us from the hot desert soil of Lodwar and beyond. As we start our descent toward the small airstrip the heat rising from the earth shakes the plane. We were tossed about in the air but soon landed safely. A large group of Kenyan soldiers were in view as we walked from the plane. It was a reminder of the recent trouble where four Kenyans were killed just over the Sudan border. Soldiers have been brought here to secure the area.
The hot wind hits our face as we walk toward the small terminal to wait for our luggage. The dust at times swirls around to the point you cannot see any distance. Friends are waiting for us at the barb wire fence which surrounds the airstrip.
As we enter St Theresa’s lodge on the outskirts of Lodwar so many come to greet us. It is good to be welcomed by those that I have come to know through the many visits to this area. The sisters are very happy for my return and have made me an honorary “Sister.”
On one of my earlier visits to this area I had a baby monkey jump on me! There are many monkeys here in the beautiful shade trees of St. Theresa’s. Two colonies of monkeys are fighting for the same area, they are at war!
This week we will finalize the purchase of a piece of property here in Turkana land. One day this land will hold another church for them worship in. When a white person tries to buy something the price often goes up. Many times we deal with people that have two prices for the same object, one price is for the natives and the other much higher price is for any one with white skin. Here in Turkana we have run into the same problem. The seller agreed to sell the property at a certain price but a few days after she increased the price considerable. We refused to buy the property at the higher price so in time the seller agreed, in writing, to sell us the property at the first price given. Knowing that she had agreed in writing we traveled to Turkana land to finalize the deal. However once on the ground we are told she has demanded the hand written agreement back and has again raised the price. The challenges and obstacles before us are many. We leave the signed agreement and the land with the seller and proceed to look into other options.
February 21, 2012 Tuesday
Another interested seller offers us a much better deal. With the hot sun beating down open this barren land the property is walked and measured. The land is surrounded by the Turkana huts and many eyes watch as the Chief carries out his duties to see that all is done correctly.
We return to the Chief’s home at the end of the day and as we sit with the Chief and the elders of the village an agreement is made. The mama wrapped in here colorful cloth sits on the ground and waits patiently for the Chief to review the paperwork. Nothing will take place unless he is in agreement.
The paperwork is signed, with thumb prints, and the money is given to the Chief. He in turn passes the money to one of the elders, who then pass it to the seller. The land has been sold and we now have a plot to return to a later time and build a church for the people of Turkana.
The mountain range stands strong and is a constant reminder that this land belongs to those that are strong, those that are survivors, those that will continue on living here generation after generation.
February 23, 2012 Thursday
It is 100 degrees here in Turkana land. The winds are strong and the dust hits the face and eyes. The land continues to thirst for water and there isn’t any sign of relief. Today we are traveling about 2 hours north of Lodwar to the largest desert lake in the world, Lake Turkana. We ride through miles of desolate land.
The sun parched prairie grass covers the land with a golden hue. The pyramid shaped mountain ranges gives us the feel of the Egyptian land. Herdsmen with their goats and sheep bring life to a land that lacks the advancement that time has brought into other areas.
Here and there along the many miles of travel we will have people run toward the car as we are approaching, they are thirsty and begging for water. It is not safe for us to stop so we must continue on. Even though we are already past the thirsty traveler I quickly grab my bottled water and throw it out the window. I looked out the back window of the car and saw him running to it like I had dropped a bag of gold beside the road. We have all been through struggles and hard times but have we ever had to beg for a glass of water?
When it does rain it causes flash flooding which destroys homes, takes lives, and washes away large sections of the road. We came to an area that has been washed out and try to go out around it. The desert sand is soft and the dip in the terrain causes us to get stuck. We are soon on our way again and very thankful. Upon reaching the village of Kalikol we have a flat tire. Life is hard here and so many don’t have the necessary emergency tools in their vehicles, sometimes they don’t even have a spare tire but we made sure that this driver did!
The camels are at home here and nothing seems to interfere with their grazing on the little food that is available to them. The wind blows and the dust covers the road to the point we can’t see too far in front of us.
The white desert sand, the blue sky, the wind and the open land surround us. Our driver slows down and shares a story of a tribe that disobeyed God and was turned to stone. Just a short distance from the road way are several stones standing upright.
Road signs, traffic lights and traffic jams are all unheard of. We are very far from home!
Lake Turkana also known as the Jade Sea has one of the largest Nile crocodile populations. It also is the home of the Kenya’s smallest tribe, the El Molo tribe.
They live on the far shore of the lake and to visit them we need to rent a boat. The winds are strong today and the sea like waves made it impossible for us to travel to the other side of the lake. We will have to visit the land of the El Molo tribe another time.
February 24, 2012 Friday
St. Theresa’s lodge is like an oasis in the middle of the desert. The branches of the shade trees come tip to tip making a cool environment beneath. It is a peaceful haven and a rest from the heat of the day. They have developed their land into useful gardens and kept them watered from their well. It is a beautiful place and a restful place for us to stay. We love to watch the monkeys enjoy the area as well but today they are in trouble. They have invaded the garden behind our room. We hear a yell from the gardener and then a thud and another thud on our roof as the monkeys leap over the fence, onto our roof and then into the safety of the trees. Once in the trees they sit with their prize of the day, a nice ear of corn! The gardener welcomes the chance to stop and visit and tells us the big snakes are down by the river. That sounds like a long ways away but it is actually just a short walk from the lodge. Here on the edge of the river are crocodiles and pythons. Knowing that we are visitors and probably wouldn’t know the way, he offers to walk us there and show us right where they are!
We needed one more document from the town council to finalize the land transaction. Today we received that document and now we are free to build another church. The challenges have been many and it is evident that we are in a land far from home. We are with a people that insist on the “Turkana way.” They are so far removed from the population of Kenya that they believe they are not part of Kenya. They believe that they are a country of their own and therefore are not under the laws of Kenya.
February 25, 2012 Saturday
From the open air terminal we watch the sky for the plane that will take us away from the desert soil to a land with rich and fertile soil. We will leave the Turkana people for now as we pray for the day of return and the day when church walls will stand strong in a harsh and needy land.
John 4:13-14 Jesus answered and said to her, “Everyone who drinks of this water shall thirst again; but whoever drinks of the water that I shall give him shall never thirst; but the water that I shall give him shall become in him a well of water springing up to eternal life.”
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