Friends with the Sun

Tuesday, March 22, 2016 The exterior walls and the roof of the school are completely done.  We have made it past the challenge of putting on the iron sheets and as the Kenyans would say, it looks “smart!”  It took some time and perseverance but the finished product is something we can all be pleased with.

It's time to leave the western mountain slopes and the cool night air and exchange it for the dry, dusty and humid air of the Turkana desert. The call to board means it is time to walk out to the plane. Just before you go up the steps everyone is given a small paper bag with a bottle of water and one cookie inside.  It's just a light morning snack for the hour flight.  The door into the plane isn’t very big and it is necessary to bend over before entering. The seats are not reserved so you can choose your own but be assured there is a window seat for everyone! From any seat in the plane you can see the pilot as he navigates the plane toward the cracked earth that will soon be seen beneath us.

As we fly toward the northwestern part of Kenya the earth beneath us changes along the way. The rich red soil that is plowed and ready for planting is the first to disappear from sight.  

As quickly as the plowed patches of earth disappear the mountain peaks show their strength and beauty as they consume the land.  Massive and rugged mountain ranges fill the land beneath us and signs of life become increasingly rare. The natural beauty of the thick green forest is amazing. It appears to be void of human touch but yet it sits in the midst of a land of corruption, pain and suffering.

We seem to drift through the clouds as the land is shifting below. The rich open land and the mountain ranges have disappeared and the tree line is being swallowed by the dry sandy soil of the desert. Rivers have disappeared and their beds hold tightly to the sand and plead for water.

As the plane lowers and prepares for landing the evidence of life can be seen.  Traditional huts dot the desert land and villages are scattered over the vast dry land below.  

The plane comes to a stop and the pyramid shaped mountains and hills near the airstrip are a tell-tale sign that we are in Turkana land.  On one such hill stands a big statue of Jesus put in place by the Catholic Church. The statue resembles Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. There are stairs that curl around the side of the large hill should one desire to climb to the top and pray.

The terminal has changed from a bench outside to a nice building.  Security measures have increased and they have made major improvements. We now have a waiting room inside and a bathroom!  

The heat of the day rushes into the plane as the door opens for us to leave. There is no doubt that we have arrived in a land where the people are “friends with the sun.”

I am greeted and welcomed back by the sisters and we visit awhile before going to my room.  The shade trees which shield us from the desert sun are occupied by monkeys who enjoy the freedom of jumping limb to limb. One will travel far to find another oasis in the desert as welcoming as this.

My suitcase is in my room, the door is locked and we are ready to take the builder to view the property for the next church.  Patrick a pastor and carpenter is well known and respected in Turkana land. He has built two other churches for us in different villages in this desert land. It is good to see that he is healthy and ready to step into another building project!

From the back of his bike I mention that we missed the road that takes us to the property. He politely tells me that he knows the roads and continues on. I realize there are more ways than one to get to the property and settle back and enjoy the scenery.  As we travel away from town and toward the village I recognize some of the land marks and different places along the way. After some time he stops to talk to a Turkana man sitting under a tree on his ekicholong/stool.  It seems like it’s a private conversation but from the bushes that mark the boundaries there is a stirring and women wrapped in colorful cloth start to speak.  They are all giving directions to the same area I had earlier told him we needed to go.  The thin and elderly man asks my name but before we answer a woman from the other side of the thorn bushes runs to meet me.  She remembers me and greets me by name. Another mama comes to welcome me too and she was the Chief’s wife. They had heard I was coming and now they had seen me with their own eyes.  With excitement in their voices the word went out  “Mama Linda” is here!

No two termite mounds are the same. Each mound is different in size and shape and can become a home for snakes as well.  The termites are very destructive to wood but are a good source of protein when eaten.  The wings will be pulled off and they will either be fried or eaten alive.  The giant termite mounds are common and become part of the decor in this dry desert land.

We walk the property and eyes from the villagers are glued on our every move. Children immediately run toward us and in a high pitched tone the greeting “Mzungu, how are you?” turns into a song. With bare feet they skip across the hot desert sand without a bother.  Torn shirts, dirty little noses, tight chest coughs, a scalp full of ring worm and hungry bellies are way too common here in Turkana.

Hunger is real for both humans and animals. The goats stand on tippy toe for a tender leaf as the land gives them nothing.

The long and tedious job of getting supplies is next and it's important to get it done so the workers will be able to start in the morning. The timber mill in town offers me a chair and a young Muslim girl offers me a glass of water.  It takes time for the body to adjust to temperatures of 100 -105 with 50% humidity on top. Finding lumber that is somewhat straight is very difficult. Piece by piece we go through the pile looking for the straightest lumber possible while the sun beats down upon us.

The delivery truck is loaded with our supplies and we are ready to go when a familiar face walks by me. We both recognize each other at the same time and our expressions were of surprise and excitement.  Peter one of the street boys from western Kenya (13-14 hour ride away) was now working in Turkana land!  

This former street boy use to stop traffic for me so I could cross the street.  He now has a job and is working hard.  It was so good to see him off the street, happy and productive.

The truck with our supplies is a welcome sight as it heads toward the open gate of the barbwire fence. My thoughts were thinking of going back and resting from the heat of the day when the tires of the truck started spinning.  The delivery truck got stuck in a raised sandy spot with a little debris of sorts right before the entrance to the property.   

A truck coming into the village brings an element of excitement to the people and being stuck brings another whole group of on lookers.  The tires did nothing but spin and the clutch sounded like it wasn’t going to last long.  Boards were put under the tires and people tried to push but nothing moved the loaded truck.   

When the clutch went the decision had been made for us. The truck was emptied on the spot and the supplies were carried onto the lot.  It was a good day’s work and we were ready for an early start in the morning. We leave knowing that the supplies will be kept safe with a night guard watching over them.

Psalm 63:1  O God, thou art my God; early will I seek thee: my soul thirtieth for thee, my flesh longeth for thee in a dry and thirsty land, where there is no water;

Yellow Fever - High Alert

Saturday, March 19, 2016 The roosters around the neighborhood let it be known that morning has not forgotten us while the birds sing along with joy.  The sheep running past my window are eager to graze on the morning grasses soaked with the night rains.  All the sounds of the morning blend in together and become an early morning choir of sorts.

From the peaceful morning setting and a nights rest the news of terrorist hits our ears.  Four men, on their way to Libya, have been arrested trying to leave Kenya and enter Uganda only a couple hours’ drive from here. 

Kenya has also been put on “High Alert” because a 31 year old man has died of Yellow Fever. This is the first case in Kenya since 1992.  Yellow Fever is transmitted to people by the bite of an infected mosquito and causes severe damage to the liver with bleeding. There is no treatment for Yellow Fever.  Traveling requires lots of shots and vaccinations and one of them is for Yellow Fever- which I’m very thankful for!

http://www.africanews.com/2016/03/18/kenya-on-alert-after-importation-of-yellow-fever/
 

The floors have their finish coat and look wonderful and work outside on the veranda has started.  The veranda will help keep the children dry during the rains. It will also provide shade which will keep the rooms cooler.  

I’m always relieved when the iron sheets are up and we can move on to something else. The workers assure me that they can put them up without any problem but as I travel I am reminded of what the finished work could look like.... uneven, patched, pieced together and far from level.  As the workers prepare to put up the iron sheets I remind them of the quality of work I’m expecting.  I draw examples on a piece of paper of what I don’t want to see and what will make me happy.  We agree that we have an understanding and the work begins. It doesn’t take long for me to understand that guidance is needed and the first three iron sheets are taken down and done over.  It is clear that I need to watch each nail that is hammered into place   

We have a lot going on. The well is being cleaned out as the water level is low right now. So we have one guy inside the 40’ well and one on top. 

We have two men & their pundas/donkeys going for water. 

There are 15 workers mixing concrete, pouring and making the ½ brick wall on the veranda plus some men are working with the iron sheets.

We bought 3 trees this week for fire wood.  They have been cut down and the pieces of wood are being brought to us by donkey & cart.   

Then we have another man splitting the wood. With a total of 20 men working my days are very full!

We are amazed at what is inside a well that has a cover and a padlock. They pulled up a 3’log, broken plastic buckets and some decaying material. They brought up buckets upon buckets of mud as they cleaned up the bottom of the well before adding some bleach to purify the water. Mama Rhoda has a giving heart and this well has been an oasis in the desert for many of the village people.

The workers are amused with me as I have continually corrected and given pointers to the men working with the iron sheets.  I have even highly suggested we do some things over. So now when I stand and start to move toward the building everyone stops and watches me. Big smiles erupt from each one of them as they carefully listen to me give their co-workers precise instructions on what not to do and how I want it done. The need for guidance is non stop as they can't see the reason behind my instruction and change comes very hard.  They would prefer to do it quick and cover the outside walls without any rhyme or reason.  So for those working on other areas of the school they have enjoyed this week and will probably have something to talk about for a very long time. “We’ve never seen a mazugu/white woman like you before.” “Mama Linda is very strict!”

In the midst of the challenges of the day a beautiful eagle flies over the school.  A reminder to
“wait on the Lord and he will renew your strength.”

The children have been so excited with all that is happening.  Every morning before class starts they run to their new school and check things out but they have never interfered with the workers during the day. They are very well behaved and continue to study even though there is a lot going on around them.   

The delivery truck came while they were on lunch break and they came to a stand still as this huge truck dump a load of sand!  This doesn’t happen every day and they were speechless :)

The teachers are just as happy as the children and maybe more!  They each take a couple minutes during lunch time and walk through and admire the building.  Very soon they will each have a room to call their own.

The rainy season comes with strong winds and we are trying in every possible way to stop the rains from entering the classroom when the door is opened.  So its important to make sure the entrances on the veranda do not line up directly across from the doors to the classrooms.

A sack of charcoal was brought by one of the parents needing funds for school fees. I am always pleased when I see them try.  The charcoal can be used to prepare lunch for the children and the money he receives will help pay the school fees that have been building up.  Perhaps it is not the usual money in hand that is expected but the heart behind the visit encourages me. The villagers struggle and have so little to work with.  This bag of charcoal represents a lot of hard work and he is willing to put it toward his children’s education.  I call that progress! 

At the end of the week we are tired but happy with all that has been accomplished. We have a clean well. The floors are finished. The half wall on the veranda is finished and concrete has been poured on the veranda walkway.  The ditch for the cement culvert that will help reroute the rain water to the back of the building has been dug.  We also have some iron sheets up!

The sun is setting and the air is now cooler but I'm so thankful that the walk out is down hill. Between the steady interaction with the workers and the heat of the day I am exhausted. Within a short distance, perhaps a mile, a bike is found. I wave goodbye to those I pass as the bike takes me away from village life and the smiles of many little children. 

Isaiah 40:31 But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run, and not be weary; and they shall walk, and not faint.

It Doesn't Come Off!

Saturday, March 12, 2016 It has been an exhausting week with long days and temperatures in the 90’s. When the natives complain that is too hot you know it must really be hot!  I’ve been told that in this type of heat when a snake tries to cross the road he will curl and then spring into the air so that he doesn’t have to touch the hot sand.  I’ve never seen them coil and spring and I’m ok with that :)

The surprise of the week is our hard working crew left without any communication.  They all disappeared and are not answering their cell phones. It seems a man on a motorbike made a visit while they were working. The conversation was short and he left.  They left too a day later!  We’ve come to the conclusion that we must have been a fill in job until their boss had work again.

We hired a new crew and their specialty is mason work which we have a lot of it to do!  I’m at the work site from morning to night every day to make sure things go smoothly and correctly.  We don’t need any short cuts and we want things “level!”  The workers have to be watched steady.  Just when you think they understand and you relax a bit they return to their old ways.  I hear comments from the workers like; I’ve never seen a mama like this, Mama Linda is very strict!  Mazungu fundi! (White woman carpenter)  How did you know that?  Are you an engineer? One thing I’ve come to notice, if you were to stay you could teach the mama’s how to be fundis/carpenters.

As we walk to the shop at corner for a soda there are cows coming our way.  It’s not unusual to share the village road with cows or donkeys but this time we step into the bushes.  There is a mean black cow coming our way that is known to chase people. When I see the look of terror on the face of the mama walking with me I do exactly as I’m told.  The cows take their time and walk down the middle of the road while we stand still and quiet in the bushes.

We met with one of the village officials while we drank our warm soda and we are informed at how pleased the leaders are with the school that is being built. The hardships that the village people face make it difficult for their children to go to school.  HIV has hit this area hard and many children have lost one or both parents.  Taito is divided into two sections being section A and B.  One section is down by the main road and the other section is up in the hills where we work.  This section has 280 families and most of them are very poor and uneducated.

This area represents many different tribes living in the same area together.  While at the worksite the director of the school shares some of the tribal ways with me. He tells me of a friend’s grandfather who had 72 “good wives.”  The definition of a good wife means she stays at home. 

The man’s status in the village was determined by the number of wives.  Having many wives was important as a man with many wives made a powerful leader.  He looked strong to those within the village. Having children was extremely important to the woman and the man. A woman with a lot of children would not be liked by the other women as they would become jealous and bitter enemies. Having a large number of wives and many children was extremely important but going to school was not even a consideration.

When a wife has a child she does not stay with her husband for two years.  When it is time for the husband to return to his wife the child will take food to his father. This is a sign and an invitation for him to return.  In the period of being apart for two years he will marry another wife.

The director, from the Kisii tribe, is now a Christian but as a child he was brought up to worship the mountains and the sun. When you had a problem in your life it meant you had done something to upset your forefathers and the problem would not go away unless you made them happy. This meant there had to be a visit to the witch doctor. He tells of times when the witch doctor would swing a dead chicken around his head to sanctify him.  There were also times when his body was cut with a razor and a mixture of herbs prescribed by the witch doctor would be poured into the open wound.

He remembers an uncle that would kill an animal and put the meat on his body.  He would then walk a long distance to please the gods.  Then the meat would be eaten.

He was the first in his family to accept Jesus into his heart, later his brothers followed and his mother too!  They now worship the creator and not creation.  

The hills are peppered with such beliefs and customs and people are reluctant to let go of what their family and tribe has been doing and believing for generations.

There over 42 tribes in Kenya and their languages, cultures and beliefs are very different.  Some worship the sea while others worship the mountains, rivers, cows or Sycamore trees.

The Caligen tribe worships the cows, Kikuyu mountains and Sycamore trees, Luo ancestral spirits and they will spit toward the sunrise and sunset when they pray. There are so many more tribes each with their own beliefs.

The days are extremely hot and the sun chases us around until we find some shade. The umbrella that I carry with me becomes useful even though it is not raining. The children have a break around 10 when they are served porridge and then another around 1 when it is time for lunch.  The few minutes we have to play toss brings a lot of joy into their day.    

After running and being in the sun it feels good to sit on the ground and rest a bit.  They surround me and study me intently. My hair is touched, my earrings are twisted round and round and then someone gets brave.  I sense fear as someone quickly touches my leg and pulls away. When they look in their hand I see a surprised look as my white skin did not wipe off!

The teacher holds the bell in her hand and rings it back and forth.  It’s time to leave the playground and return to class. The children quickly respond and run toward the door but before they enter they make a turn and head out back to the latrine.  Somewhere along the way the ringing of the bell has taken on a new meaning.  To the children it means it is time for a latrine break instead of its time for class :)

Some of the children have missed a few days of school this week because of a death in the hills. A young mama was giving birth to her first child and died. Without the money for transportation and medical fees children are usually delivered at home.

The classrooms are shaping up fast.  The floors have been leveled and good soil has been brought in.  They have been compressed by pounding them over and over again. A solution has been poured into the soil to discourage the termites and then finally a layer of plastic has been put down.   

 The first layer of concrete has been poured and some of the walls are being plastered.

Others are doing the framing for the placement of the doors and windows. We are excited to see each part of the building come together.

 As we set our window frames in place so that we can admire them we realize that some of the windows open the wrong way.  There is also a problem with the doors as the iron frame does not have the holes to permit the nails to go into the wooden frame. The doors and windows that need to be corrected are tied on the back of a motorbike and sent for repair.  There are always little surprises throughout the day that take more time and more patience.

It’s the dry season and our demand on the well has been too much. The words “the well is dry” wasn’t what anyone wanted to hear in the midst of pouring concrete.   

The neighbor’s punda/donkey comes to our rescue though and keeps the water coming throughout the day. The river isn’t too far away and makes it possible for us to finish.

Nehemiah 4:6…..the people worked with all their heart.