Two Shallow Graves

Wednesday, March 23, 2016 It feels like the sun never rests. It is hot when you go to bed and it is hot when you get up. It’s about a twenty minute ride on the back of the bike from the gated compound to the property for the new church. The sides of the road going through the trading town are full of vendors and little shops. Herds of goats walk through the area of produce bins and some find shelter from the sun under parked trucks. It’s obvious that the roadway is not reserved for the busy bus line or the motorbikes as animals roam freely and rummage through the garbage piles along the way.  

Slender women with their necks adorned in precious beads and their heads shaven, with the exception of a small center area, walk to the market with newly woven baskets. Turkana men wearing robes of their tribal colors walk together with their cattle prod resting across their shoulders and a small wooden stool or headrest/ekicholong hanging off the cattle prod.  You will never see a man and woman walking as a couple or even side by side.  

It isn’t as dusty riding in town as the main roads now have tarmac but once you start to leave the center and head out toward the villages the dust rolls off the dirt roads.  I’ve found the need to drape myself in cloth while I’m on the bike riding back and forth.  It keeps the sun off me and helps keep the dust out of my lungs.  I actually look very African except for the visible white skin.

The once open land is becoming full of the traditional igloo shaped homes covered with palm branches.  With the exception of the brightly painted wooden door they blend in with earth beneath them.  There are also some homes made from the mud of the earth and a few are now covered with iron sheet roofing.  There is a quarry in a different area that is producing a lightly rose colored stone which is being used for more expensive structures and commercial buildings found closer to town. There is evidence of growth and expansion throughout the areas traveled.
 

The children’s eyes have been ever so watchful and as I round each corner little hands go up and “How are you?” hits my ear like a song. Then there is a rush as many little bare foot children run toward the bike and follow us in.

The property is open to the sun and the hot soil resembles beach sand. There is one small tree that stands alone, struggling under the desert the sun.  In this arid land trees are very valued and as we mark out the church we keep this in mind.  The tree must not be disturbed!  It will be a meeting place and a place of comfort from the heat of the day for many in the days to come.

The church is marked out for all to see and it is official, the church is going up! 

My backpack is heavier today. There is the usual umbrella, bandages, camera, water, phone, lollipops, tissues, germ x, jump ropes, bouncy balls, Bible and something extra for Patrick our head carpenter.  Patrick lives in the hills out of town. He is a husband, father, pastor and carpenter. Tools of good quality are very hard to find here. They are costly and out of reach for many of the builders.  Patrick built two other churches in different villages of Turkana Land for us so we know his need of tools. Before coming my husband, who is a builder too, picked out a Stanley hammer just for Patrick. 

Patrick couldn’t be happier with his new hammer.  The one he was using was tied together and of poor quality.   This hammer will be used and treasured. It won’t be left on the job site but will go home with him at the end of each and every day.

A plastic chair from one of the neighbors was quickly brought to me and placed under our little shade tree.  As the sun went higher and higher in the sky I found it more difficult to be in the shade as our tree is not thick with leaves.

Music, with the beating of drums, travels with the desert winds. It settles in my ears and brings joy to my heart. It is Wednesday and once a week the ladies meet in one of the nearby homes for Bible study. Their praise seeps through the palm branches that wall their igloo shaped home and becomes the radio of the day.

The post holes were dug and the posts were treated with a chemical to deter termites mixed with used motor oil before being placed in the ground.  Termites are very destructive and big problem here in Turkana as well as other areas of Kenya. 

The sun shows no mercy. The word “hot” has a totally different meaning when you are in Turkana. Without moving a finger pellets of moisture roll down my face. When the pastor notices this he becomes concerned but with a confirming smile I assure him that I am fine.  Their appreciation and friendship puts their feet in action and they send someone to get more water for me.

The first post is up and we are moving forward even in the intense heat and wind that sends small debris and sand into your face and eyes.  The winds gather the earth and release it without thought or care.

The surprise of the day is finding out that the two mounds our delivery truck got stuck in yesterday are the graves of two people!  It’s a wonder that the spinning tires didn’t unearth someone’s beloved.  There was not mention of this until I inquired about the debris at the gate entrance.  I thought perhaps someone was dumping garbage there and we could clean it up. There were some cloth items, paper, a couple playing cards, broken glass and a pair very worn out shoes.  It seems that the swallow graves are covered with the belongings of the deceased.  They aren’t needed anymore and go to the grave with them. It amazed me that traveling over the graves was not seen as dishonor to those gone on.

Rafters are being made as the posts go in and the new hammer is swinging as Patrick smiles away!  He appreciates the gift and will never forget the giver. He thanks God and “Gove” for remembering him.

I leave the site for a couple hours to rest from the sun. It is a bit cooler back at the compound and I can rest from the constant wind of the desert.  It’s good to take time to pour water into me and to cool off in one of many showers.  Rain water is collected and stored in large tanks held on high stands. It is not heated. In fact the shower has only one facet “cold” but the water is never cold as the sun heats it.

The workers on the compound are familiar to me as I’ve been coming here for years.  They are all very friendly and I enjoy talking with them and there is one lady who works in the kitchen that is very special to me…….the snake killer!

A few years back I had eaten and was returning to my room.  I was not thinking about snakes, scorpions or spiders.  I was tired and had returned to my safe zone and was thinking about relaxing.  But as I was walking in the designated path way I noticed a branch had fallen on the ground.  It did not occur to me that it was a snake until I got very close and my foot was above and it took off into the bushes.  I notified the workers that I had seen a snake and they gathered around that area and found the cobra with its head up looking out of bushes at us. The men hesitated but the cook took charge and made sure this snake would never hurt anyone.  Usually when a snake is seen in this area everyone will hunt for it and then kill it as they are poisonous and can bring death.

There was one worker missing and the story unfolded as I sat with the sisters. She began to make frequent visits to the witch doctor and it escalated to her taking part in the ceremonies held in the mountains. Her peaceful, calm personality changed and she started stealing from the rooms. There was unrest and fighting with the co- workers and she even tried to fight with the sisters. The situation got worse and one day she tried to kill one of the workers here at the center. After many years of doing her job well and building a name that carried a good reputation it was gone.  She refused help and she went her way. 

As we travel to the sight we notice a police vehicle with the canvas covered back. The benches inside are full of people and no one looks too happy.  Kenya has an ongoing campaign to slow down the making & selling of the very dangerous and illegal home brew.  It seems that Turkana has not been left out of this mission.

It was an extra special day for the children.  Some just sat and studied me while others were brave enough to touch my hair. But the best part of the day for them was playing with the jump ropes and bouncy balls my granddaughters, Vanessa & Grace, packed in my suitcase for the children of Africa. Some of the adults tried the jump ropes too!

What joy leaped with in them as they played toss and took turns with the jumps ropes. Having toys for the children to play with are not part of life in the Turkana villages.

The sun sets over the hills that close us in and become a beautiful tapestry reaching to the sky.  The children run beside the bike as we leave the area and call my name, “Lendah, Lendah, Lendah.”  It is a name that has traveled far and will not be quickly forgotten.  Tomorrow they will wake early with anticipation and excitement as they watch for white woman to enter their village once again.

Isaiah 58:11 The Lord will guide you always; he will satisfy your needs in a sun-scorched land and will strengthen your frame.

Friends with the Sun

Tuesday, March 22, 2016 The exterior walls and the roof of the school are completely done.  We have made it past the challenge of putting on the iron sheets and as the Kenyans would say, it looks “smart!”  It took some time and perseverance but the finished product is something we can all be pleased with.

It's time to leave the western mountain slopes and the cool night air and exchange it for the dry, dusty and humid air of the Turkana desert. The call to board means it is time to walk out to the plane. Just before you go up the steps everyone is given a small paper bag with a bottle of water and one cookie inside.  It's just a light morning snack for the hour flight.  The door into the plane isn’t very big and it is necessary to bend over before entering. The seats are not reserved so you can choose your own but be assured there is a window seat for everyone! From any seat in the plane you can see the pilot as he navigates the plane toward the cracked earth that will soon be seen beneath us.

As we fly toward the northwestern part of Kenya the earth beneath us changes along the way. The rich red soil that is plowed and ready for planting is the first to disappear from sight.  

As quickly as the plowed patches of earth disappear the mountain peaks show their strength and beauty as they consume the land.  Massive and rugged mountain ranges fill the land beneath us and signs of life become increasingly rare. The natural beauty of the thick green forest is amazing. It appears to be void of human touch but yet it sits in the midst of a land of corruption, pain and suffering.

We seem to drift through the clouds as the land is shifting below. The rich open land and the mountain ranges have disappeared and the tree line is being swallowed by the dry sandy soil of the desert. Rivers have disappeared and their beds hold tightly to the sand and plead for water.

As the plane lowers and prepares for landing the evidence of life can be seen.  Traditional huts dot the desert land and villages are scattered over the vast dry land below.  

The plane comes to a stop and the pyramid shaped mountains and hills near the airstrip are a tell-tale sign that we are in Turkana land.  On one such hill stands a big statue of Jesus put in place by the Catholic Church. The statue resembles Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. There are stairs that curl around the side of the large hill should one desire to climb to the top and pray.

The terminal has changed from a bench outside to a nice building.  Security measures have increased and they have made major improvements. We now have a waiting room inside and a bathroom!  

The heat of the day rushes into the plane as the door opens for us to leave. There is no doubt that we have arrived in a land where the people are “friends with the sun.”

I am greeted and welcomed back by the sisters and we visit awhile before going to my room.  The shade trees which shield us from the desert sun are occupied by monkeys who enjoy the freedom of jumping limb to limb. One will travel far to find another oasis in the desert as welcoming as this.

My suitcase is in my room, the door is locked and we are ready to take the builder to view the property for the next church.  Patrick a pastor and carpenter is well known and respected in Turkana land. He has built two other churches for us in different villages in this desert land. It is good to see that he is healthy and ready to step into another building project!

From the back of his bike I mention that we missed the road that takes us to the property. He politely tells me that he knows the roads and continues on. I realize there are more ways than one to get to the property and settle back and enjoy the scenery.  As we travel away from town and toward the village I recognize some of the land marks and different places along the way. After some time he stops to talk to a Turkana man sitting under a tree on his ekicholong/stool.  It seems like it’s a private conversation but from the bushes that mark the boundaries there is a stirring and women wrapped in colorful cloth start to speak.  They are all giving directions to the same area I had earlier told him we needed to go.  The thin and elderly man asks my name but before we answer a woman from the other side of the thorn bushes runs to meet me.  She remembers me and greets me by name. Another mama comes to welcome me too and she was the Chief’s wife. They had heard I was coming and now they had seen me with their own eyes.  With excitement in their voices the word went out  “Mama Linda” is here!

No two termite mounds are the same. Each mound is different in size and shape and can become a home for snakes as well.  The termites are very destructive to wood but are a good source of protein when eaten.  The wings will be pulled off and they will either be fried or eaten alive.  The giant termite mounds are common and become part of the decor in this dry desert land.

We walk the property and eyes from the villagers are glued on our every move. Children immediately run toward us and in a high pitched tone the greeting “Mzungu, how are you?” turns into a song. With bare feet they skip across the hot desert sand without a bother.  Torn shirts, dirty little noses, tight chest coughs, a scalp full of ring worm and hungry bellies are way too common here in Turkana.

Hunger is real for both humans and animals. The goats stand on tippy toe for a tender leaf as the land gives them nothing.

The long and tedious job of getting supplies is next and it's important to get it done so the workers will be able to start in the morning. The timber mill in town offers me a chair and a young Muslim girl offers me a glass of water.  It takes time for the body to adjust to temperatures of 100 -105 with 50% humidity on top. Finding lumber that is somewhat straight is very difficult. Piece by piece we go through the pile looking for the straightest lumber possible while the sun beats down upon us.

The delivery truck is loaded with our supplies and we are ready to go when a familiar face walks by me. We both recognize each other at the same time and our expressions were of surprise and excitement.  Peter one of the street boys from western Kenya (13-14 hour ride away) was now working in Turkana land!  

This former street boy use to stop traffic for me so I could cross the street.  He now has a job and is working hard.  It was so good to see him off the street, happy and productive.

The truck with our supplies is a welcome sight as it heads toward the open gate of the barbwire fence. My thoughts were thinking of going back and resting from the heat of the day when the tires of the truck started spinning.  The delivery truck got stuck in a raised sandy spot with a little debris of sorts right before the entrance to the property.   

A truck coming into the village brings an element of excitement to the people and being stuck brings another whole group of on lookers.  The tires did nothing but spin and the clutch sounded like it wasn’t going to last long.  Boards were put under the tires and people tried to push but nothing moved the loaded truck.   

When the clutch went the decision had been made for us. The truck was emptied on the spot and the supplies were carried onto the lot.  It was a good day’s work and we were ready for an early start in the morning. We leave knowing that the supplies will be kept safe with a night guard watching over them.

Psalm 63:1  O God, thou art my God; early will I seek thee: my soul thirtieth for thee, my flesh longeth for thee in a dry and thirsty land, where there is no water;

Yellow Fever - High Alert

Saturday, March 19, 2016 The roosters around the neighborhood let it be known that morning has not forgotten us while the birds sing along with joy.  The sheep running past my window are eager to graze on the morning grasses soaked with the night rains.  All the sounds of the morning blend in together and become an early morning choir of sorts.

From the peaceful morning setting and a nights rest the news of terrorist hits our ears.  Four men, on their way to Libya, have been arrested trying to leave Kenya and enter Uganda only a couple hours’ drive from here. 

Kenya has also been put on “High Alert” because a 31 year old man has died of Yellow Fever. This is the first case in Kenya since 1992.  Yellow Fever is transmitted to people by the bite of an infected mosquito and causes severe damage to the liver with bleeding. There is no treatment for Yellow Fever.  Traveling requires lots of shots and vaccinations and one of them is for Yellow Fever- which I’m very thankful for!

http://www.africanews.com/2016/03/18/kenya-on-alert-after-importation-of-yellow-fever/
 

The floors have their finish coat and look wonderful and work outside on the veranda has started.  The veranda will help keep the children dry during the rains. It will also provide shade which will keep the rooms cooler.  

I’m always relieved when the iron sheets are up and we can move on to something else. The workers assure me that they can put them up without any problem but as I travel I am reminded of what the finished work could look like.... uneven, patched, pieced together and far from level.  As the workers prepare to put up the iron sheets I remind them of the quality of work I’m expecting.  I draw examples on a piece of paper of what I don’t want to see and what will make me happy.  We agree that we have an understanding and the work begins. It doesn’t take long for me to understand that guidance is needed and the first three iron sheets are taken down and done over.  It is clear that I need to watch each nail that is hammered into place   

We have a lot going on. The well is being cleaned out as the water level is low right now. So we have one guy inside the 40’ well and one on top. 

We have two men & their pundas/donkeys going for water. 

There are 15 workers mixing concrete, pouring and making the ½ brick wall on the veranda plus some men are working with the iron sheets.

We bought 3 trees this week for fire wood.  They have been cut down and the pieces of wood are being brought to us by donkey & cart.   

Then we have another man splitting the wood. With a total of 20 men working my days are very full!

We are amazed at what is inside a well that has a cover and a padlock. They pulled up a 3’log, broken plastic buckets and some decaying material. They brought up buckets upon buckets of mud as they cleaned up the bottom of the well before adding some bleach to purify the water. Mama Rhoda has a giving heart and this well has been an oasis in the desert for many of the village people.

The workers are amused with me as I have continually corrected and given pointers to the men working with the iron sheets.  I have even highly suggested we do some things over. So now when I stand and start to move toward the building everyone stops and watches me. Big smiles erupt from each one of them as they carefully listen to me give their co-workers precise instructions on what not to do and how I want it done. The need for guidance is non stop as they can't see the reason behind my instruction and change comes very hard.  They would prefer to do it quick and cover the outside walls without any rhyme or reason.  So for those working on other areas of the school they have enjoyed this week and will probably have something to talk about for a very long time. “We’ve never seen a mazugu/white woman like you before.” “Mama Linda is very strict!”

In the midst of the challenges of the day a beautiful eagle flies over the school.  A reminder to
“wait on the Lord and he will renew your strength.”

The children have been so excited with all that is happening.  Every morning before class starts they run to their new school and check things out but they have never interfered with the workers during the day. They are very well behaved and continue to study even though there is a lot going on around them.   

The delivery truck came while they were on lunch break and they came to a stand still as this huge truck dump a load of sand!  This doesn’t happen every day and they were speechless :)

The teachers are just as happy as the children and maybe more!  They each take a couple minutes during lunch time and walk through and admire the building.  Very soon they will each have a room to call their own.

The rainy season comes with strong winds and we are trying in every possible way to stop the rains from entering the classroom when the door is opened.  So its important to make sure the entrances on the veranda do not line up directly across from the doors to the classrooms.

A sack of charcoal was brought by one of the parents needing funds for school fees. I am always pleased when I see them try.  The charcoal can be used to prepare lunch for the children and the money he receives will help pay the school fees that have been building up.  Perhaps it is not the usual money in hand that is expected but the heart behind the visit encourages me. The villagers struggle and have so little to work with.  This bag of charcoal represents a lot of hard work and he is willing to put it toward his children’s education.  I call that progress! 

At the end of the week we are tired but happy with all that has been accomplished. We have a clean well. The floors are finished. The half wall on the veranda is finished and concrete has been poured on the veranda walkway.  The ditch for the cement culvert that will help reroute the rain water to the back of the building has been dug.  We also have some iron sheets up!

The sun is setting and the air is now cooler but I'm so thankful that the walk out is down hill. Between the steady interaction with the workers and the heat of the day I am exhausted. Within a short distance, perhaps a mile, a bike is found. I wave goodbye to those I pass as the bike takes me away from village life and the smiles of many little children. 

Isaiah 40:31 But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run, and not be weary; and they shall walk, and not faint.